Huelva

The Rio Tinto is full of iron and other poisonous elements making it very unhealthy. At Niebla the Roman bridge over the Rio Tinto is still in use and the Muslim fortress was built to withstand attack by weapons using gunpowder. It is regarded as the first significant building to withstand such attacks although it was surrendered to the Christian Army in due course. Huelva sits between two magor rivers and access for me proved difficult avoiding extensive areas of swampy land or major highways. San Juan del Puente was celebrating John the Baptist Day a day later than La Palma from where I set off earlier.

As a result of the earthquake of the mid 1700s Huelva was mosly destroyed. The same earthquake which hit Lisbon. It is still a major port but cannot be regarded as a beautiful city. Maybe it was different in past times.

Cristóbal Colon set sail from Huelva. His statue shows him pointing towards the Atlantic and distant America. The waterfront is extensive but the replicas of the ships Colón sailed are a little distant to visit today.

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La Palma del Condado

SUNDAY

Today was initially dictated by the exceptionally high temperatures reaching 37°(45° on the road). Bodegas apoear however in La Palma del Condado preparations were underway for celebrating St John the Baptist Day. The Barroquial parish church of San Juan Bautista (St John the Baptist) appeared to be preparing for a Sunday mass but clearly something important was happening as  people from the town gathered.

A stunning procession took place through the town with brass band and thumping percussion. Initially and dramatically the decorated structure holding the statue of St John aloft inched out through the main doorway. Carried by a team of men within the decorated structure into the Plaza de España and followed by dozens of dignitaries dressed for the occassion. The procession made its way through all the main streets at a slow pace. Very slow with fresh teams of bearers at intervals. It all took many hours and went well into the scorching hot night. Truly magnificent sight and showing the strength of Catholicism in Spain. 

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Seville for a second day

Today in Seville it is 37° and spending time in the cool of the Cathedral is welcome relief. The visit includes climbing the La Giralda tower which is 40 odd sloped tiled ramps to arrive at the bell tower. The bell rang when the visitors were immediately underneath and frightened us all stiff after the serious climb up there. The structure is largely Islamic era as are parts of the Cathedral. The largest Cathedral in the world of course pushing the Hagia Sophia in Instanbul into second place. That's got the ramped access ways to upper levels too. Ramps can be climbed by mules to heave up the privileged.

Really one needs a whole day to see all that the Cathedral offers and whilst it doesnt have a massively voluminous nave there are countless chapels with  artwork, gold and silver craftsmanship and so much more.
Inside an important mausoleum to Cristóbal Colón was erected in1899 after his body was moved from Valladolid where he died to the Dominican Republic then to Cuba before arriving in Seville, the city he loved. The city loves him too.

In the days of discovery the ports of Cadiz and Huelva were highly significant ports and as Seville was the capital of Andalucia and relatively closeby it benefited from trade in and out of these ports. A particular chapel is devoted to those making voyages to pray for safe return.

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Seville walking tour

Seville is the capitol of Andalucia and it's a very major city on the banks of the river Guadalquivir. It is in fact the fourth biggest city in Spain behind Madrid, Barcelona and Valencia. Like so many cities and towns in Spain the recapturing from the Muslims has a lasting impact. The Alcazar, constructed as a lesser version of La Alhambra, was an Islamic palace until King Ferdinand recaptured it. It is still used as a Royal Palace when King Felipe lV and Queen Letizia visit the city.

At the point of the Torre del Oro (Tower of Gold) the Arabs built a floating bridge accross the river (basically boats tied together side by side) which was destroyed by Ferdinand who set alight his own boats and sent them into the floating structure. Without supplies the Arabs surrendered the city to the Christian army. The Reconquista moved another step forward in 1248.

Peculiarly many of the landmark buildings like the famous Plaza de España is not even 10O years old. Built to amalgamate many autonomous areas and to align the city with many other great cities worldwide the Iberian-American Exposition put Seville on the world map in 1929. In 5 years time I'm sure there will be a huge 100 year festival to celebrate if you are planning to visit.

The bullring is very famous and although much controversy exists around the sport bullfighting continues as a result of a recent referendum. The Plaza de Toros de la Real Maenstraza bullring lives on and the families of the toreodores still come to prayer for the safe outcome of their family member. They spend the night before in prayer within the complex. It's a dangerous living.

The tomb of Cristóbal Colón is in the Cathedral which I look forward to seeing. A portrait painting of the man is fascinating. He was deeply religious and believed the wealth of trade resulting from the colonisation of the Americas would assist Jerusalem being brought back under Christian control.

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Seville

 

 

Wild boar in this elevated section of Andalusia leaving Real de la Jera. The vast plains beyond stretch towards Seville. 

Cycle paths to  access the city help but a wrong turning causes major issues and humping bags and bike through wasteland and water channels is a stressful bad experience. Never think you know it all in the activity known as cycling.

Seville is at sea level and water activities abound. The waterway is well used for water sporting activity. Streets are full of tourists.

From the hostel roof terrace the cathedral is seen lit up and over two full days there will be much more to see. 

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El Real de la Jara

WEDNESDAY

An Osborne Bull appears magically on the horizon. A real lift of spirit results and a peculiar respect for this symbol of Spain. The countryside stretches onwards. Less welcome thunderstones crash in and the temperatures drop 20°.

Thunderous storms with lightening and torrential rain from Monesterio through to El Real de la Jara which is fairly modern with a ruined castle overviewing it.

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Zafra

TUESDAY

The longest 'ancient world' bridge left standing in the world in Médina is a Roman one of course. This ancient Via de la Plata route was clearly hugely important to the Romans who called upon all their engineering skills to cross the River Guardiana which runs on to form a major section of the border with Portugal. This region was known as Lusitania to the Romans. Seven centuries or so later the Arabs made the most of the strategic position of the bridge and their Alcabazar (fortified castle) was built at one end. Heavily fortified walls housed the Arab forces.

A long distance cyclist turned up at the hostel. A Polish man living with a Portuguese woman and remaining a keen rather unconvential cyclist. He lived in Oxford for years and sped past me on his electrically assisted bike when we took off. Travellers on bikes and by foot from San Fransisco and Switzerland were on the road today. Moving in opposite directions but crossing paths and taking coffee stops.

The converted convent is basic and although many dormitories are available I'm the only 'peregrino' staying over.

It was raining today and Zafra didn't glow in the sunshine.

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Mérida walkabout

A leisurely day to visit the historic attractions of this lovely town. A week after leaving Madrid and what a wonderful place this is with Roman historical buildings including an aqueduct, the longest ancient bridge in existence, an amphitheatre and a superb outdoor theatre. My namesake, THE Tom Jones, is performing at the theatre in a few days time!

The hostel owner joked about being confused when he first saw my name on the room reservation.

Just a few more photos and to finish a new statue of the Capitoline Wolf suckling Romulus and Remus linking this city with Rome. 

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Mérida

SUNDAY

Arriving in Mérida is uncomplicated  following a ruta ciclista most of the way from Cáceres.

Aljucén is one of few small towns on the road. The church built by the Order of the Knights of Santiago in part to commemorate the expulsion of the Arabs from Spain. The Reconquista. 

Roman Emerita Augusta now Mérida was historically a major Roman town, even considered the Rome of Spain, built on the Via de la Plata ie the name given to the Roman road from gold/silver mines in Asturias in the North of Spain to Cadiz the major port in the south. The name remains and is the route of one of the caminos to Santiago. In fact the longest camino route in Spain stretching over 1,000kms. Consequently fewer peregrinos. One of those, an Italian called Francesco, I've remained in touch with years after crossing paths with him on the Via de la Plata in Benavente nearer Santiago. His journey inspired me to travel more of this camino I've now joined.

An unexpected reservoir of water created by a Roman dam fed water to the city and the monumental Los Milagros aqueduct has survived in part.

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Cáceres

SATURDAY

A long distance cyclist heading in the opposite direction. Catherine already well into her journey starting from Tarifa the most southerly point in Spain. She's from Bristol. More surprisingly she's aiming to get to the North Cape inside 3 months. We chatted about bikes, navigation and left going different directions. My first meeting with a touring cyclist and her second.

My tyre was losing air so I planned to fit a new inner tube on the way. It was quietly disintegrating and I made the change when arriving in my hostel in Cáceres. The city was buzzing with European football on tv with Spain winning their match. The old city a labyrinth of narrow steep streets and a long history involving Roman and Moorish occupation. Many tourists here and I find it unsettling after the stillness of the countryside and the low key overnight stays since leaving Madrid. A wedding party exits the cathedral. Perfect weather for guests to stroll about the Plaza Mayor closeby. In fact the whole town population appears to be out dressed up to walk the streets. I finally track down a bank which doesn't charge a big commission for dispensing cash. Santander Bank.

A peregrino I meet in the hostel leaves at 4am to beat the heat of the afternoon. I've joined the Via de la Plata, one of my aims of the trip.

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Torrejón el Rubio

FRIDAY

Street workers in Spain are always well turned out. In fact the small towns and communities I pass through are meticulously clean. I see them sweeping during the mornings in all the communities. Mainly women.

I've learnt that wherever you go in Spain you'll come across a camino. Lots of lesser ones joining the more well known ones. Joining a well signposted Camino Real at a hermitage to Our Lady, a pilgrimage destination celebrated with a festival each May. A place standing alone in the countryside.

Parque Nacional de Monfragüe is a surprise with large areas of water in an otherwise dry landscape. It is rugged landscape and mountaunous in part but supporting much wildlife. Bonelli's eagles plainly visible swooping down from graggy outcrops above the waterways and other birds of prey I couldn't recognise. Cattle, donkeys and wild deer. Encimas and Alconoques are 'oak' species trees suited to the dry climate and cover the landscape entirely. The fruit acorn is used to feed pigs which I didn't see!

Toril is a delightful oasis and a centre for discovering wildlife in the region. Mari Jose showed me around the beautifully refurbished church now an exhibition centre. She spoke a little English which I've already said is rare here. The festival the following day I will miss.

Rarely saw another vehicle throughout the day with temperatures on the trail reaching near 40° (32° in the shade).

I received many best wishes messages on my birthday today.

PS photos are resized down to 10% to allow easy transfer to blog and so often not very sharp sorry

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