Col de Montgenévre and Italy

 

The fortified outpost on high protecting the equally fortified walls of the city of BBriançon together with the view looking back as the climb over the Col de Montgenévre begins. Not my planned route but yesterday's stormy weather has closed my preferred route. A sign indicated 'Bardonecchia fermé' and the local man I stopped said "better go Montgenévre". Local advice is best as a rule on these matters and in fact mud slurry had been swept off my chosen road so the rainfall had been significant. You know what grey mud slurry looks like!

The Col summit is a skiing resort. Trekkers gathering and heading over ski slopes into the forest. Snow between November and April.

Piedmont, Italy and an Italian fortified complex once controlling the valley. And a chance connection with the Via Francigena pilgrimage route which completes in Rome. No pilgrims seen yet but plenty more opportunities will arise.

Briançon gets wet

Weather change in Briançon today. 

Tomorrow the mountain pass Pian del Colle into Italy. Slightly easier gradients than that of Col de Montgènevre. 

Briançon, highest city in France

Briançon is the highest city in France at 1,326m elevation. It's been difficult cycling here and I have tomorrow to investigate the history of this fortified place. 

En route today I note the turning towards the Col de Traversette at Guillestre, short of Briançon. The journey from the Rhone crossing has been long and arduous but the section over the Col de Traversette into Italy is only passable by foot. Legend says rock faces were smashed to widen the track to allow Hannibal's army safe passage. I must continue on road surfaces and after following desperately difficult sections of 'off road' today know that decision was right.

The later constructed Roman Via Domitia passed through Briançon and entered Italy at the Col de Montgenèvre. My direction until I catch up with Hannibal's trail in Turin.

Gap to Embrun

Cow bells ring, crystal blue lake water invites water sports and various cols for racing cyclists to test themselves. Off the main highway the gradients are challenging but scenery outstanding.

So burning hot still when I thought temperatures would drop. In the Alps at altitude this feels fundamentally wrong.

In 1944 an American bomber crash landed in this region, after a raid on Berlin, and the crew saved by village locals and Frech resistance fighters. The aircraft propeller blade acts as a poignant memorial.

To my delight in Embrun the bar is serving Domain des Annibals vin blanc. How could I resist. In actuality the vineyard is very distant but the coincidence of seeing it being served here a boost to morale.

The lake is Lac de Serre-Pontçon.

 

 

Gap in Haute-Alpes

Moving slowly from one river course to another the backdrop of mountains constantly changes. I am reminded of cardboard cut-outs of mountain peaks being slid past each other (like a childish animation) and disappearing in time for another one to reappear.

I've learnt hunting wild boar takes place and deer. Wolves inhabit the more remote parts in these thickly forested mountains. Feed is provided for the boars to keep them away from properties.

Gap is a substantial town and lies on the Roman Via Domitia. Hannibal's route was longwinded when there is a more direct route back to the Rhone crossing point. Of course the Via Domitia didn't exist then and maintaining the element of uncertainty was crucial to his plan.

Gap Cathedral is very smart and isn't actually much more than one hundred years old. It is built on the same site as the 5th century church which fell into ruin. And that one was built on the ruins of the Roman Temple to the God Apollo.

 

Sent from my Galaxy