A few more moments

Holy Year on the Camino de Santiago

As many pilgrims have discovered throughout the centuries, the testing daily physical exursion often results in damage. Hospitals to care for those in trouble were common along the camino and the Bendedictine Monks were largely responsible for providing this care. Indeed, care for the needy is a main objective of the Benedictine Order. Now medical staff in modern hospitals do the same!

The flagship Pilgrim Hospital once called 'Hospital de Real Santiago' is on the Plaza de Obradoiro right in front of the Cathedral in Santiago. It is now the very upmarket 5 star 'Parador de los Reyes Católicos'. To this day a limited number of free meals for pilgrims are provided at the Parador to continue the theme of 'giving to those in need'.

Many former Pilgrim Hospitals dotted along the Camino are now in disrepair. A sobering sight in today's modern world of medical science and a poignant link to the thousand year old history of travelling the Camino. 

Spending time recovering from the hardships of travelling on foot, from disease, from hunger and all sorts were common. There were those who never recovered of course!

And so the Camino picks up again after the easing of restrictions caused by the Covid 19 Pandemic. Survivors are back and a grim chapter in the history of Europe's 'Premier Cultural Itinerary' to the shrine of the apostle Saint James is drawing to a close. It is a Holy Year and 807 years since Saint Francis of Assisi walked on pilgrimage to Santiago (that odd number I know because we celebrated the 800th anniversary of his pilgrimage seven years ago).

Our group of Welsh Amigos walked and cycled in support of brereaved parents and funds to research into stillbirth.  Neckerchieks designed around little Wilbur with family connections to two of our party we wore throughout. Sadly Wilbur did not make it into this world but the story is widespread now and his virtual journey awarded with a 'compostela' in Santiago de Compostela, the most visited Christian pilgrimage destination in modern times.

Jacobean Year (Año Xacobea) the Holy Year is extended into 2022 due to the Pandemic and then next falls in 2027

Melide last night before Santiago

Solutions are found for making a Camino a successful one. Time stands still when that journey begins if the journey is necessary at all.

Mountains don't move, weather doesn't change, people might if they have a mind to?

Sarria is less than the name implies as the distance to our goal becomes shorter. Tomorrow we arrive at oir destination in Santiago de Compostella.

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Galicia and Sarria

It's just above feezing and later 25° and a Bank Holiday for Spanish Day.

Galicia border crossed without incident.

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Cruz de Ferro and Knights Templar castle in Ponferrada

People have stories to tell at the 1500m high point on the Camino. Pebbles carried from home are placed under the iron cross in the act of sharing the journey with those who can't. Leaving a little lighter the destination comes more into focus.

The fairytale castle in Ponferrada never fails to impress.

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Rabanal del Camino

Rabanal has the Camino spirit with pelegrinos in numbers and 'menu del peregrinos' on offer. Albergues all very old timber costruction buildings converted to accommodate those on the journey. 

Vespers at the local church a special experience. The wine is of Leon and tomorrow will be From Villafranca del Bierzo. Spanish are very particular about wine locality. Most re-assuring for some reason.

Next time some photos from more elevated parts of the Camino. 

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Festival of San Froilan in Leon

Its fiesta in Leon and crowded streets celebrate the patron saint San Froilan. 

The Meseta ends as the Montanas de Leon draw closer. 

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Traffic into Sahagun

8

An opportunity to share the camino path with walkers after Carrión de los Condes. Francis of Assisis spent a night here on his pilgrimmage to Santiago 800+ years ago. 

Sahagun is midway on the Camino Frances and a place historically where the Benedictine Monks created a massive monastery.  A gateway still exists although the monastery is largely in ruins. Alfonso IV ( known as the the Monk) was closely connected to the Monastery. 

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Meseta

Leaving the statue of El Cid the Camino moves onto the Meseta plateau with expansive views and silence. Shade is at a premium as the sun beats down. You can get lost in the silence given a chance.

The Rollo in Boudilla a place of suffering where penalties for crimes were metered out. Wrong doers were chained to the upright. 

Fromista boasts an almost perfect Romanesque church.

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El Cid tomb and inside Burgos Cathedral

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Burgos

A 30km walk to finish in Burgos and to meet with full group. We sre six.

The cathedral is truly magnificient and more will follow as we have a rest day.

Hasta pronto.

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Belorado in Castille y Leon

In the Comunidad of Castille y Leon Belorado is an uninspiring town. After non stop raining and wondering over the thousands of paces made the rain helps concentrate the mind. Ten thousand steps is actually ten thousand movements of the legs forward.  The electronic numbers sometime conceal the reality. 

Manuel from Sevilla returns home. A good friend.

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Santo Dominigo

Spanish Manuel and Angel are from Sevilla and Valencia and most engaging company as we walk a stage or two together.

I simply repeat briefly the story of two beheaded cooked chickens which were resurrected by Dominic to testify in favour of the pilgrim charged wrongly with theft. Now chickens, descendants of those resurrected, are caged in the cathedral. The Cathedral of Santo Domingo del Cabeza. The tower built separately for more stable underground support.

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Najera

Gently rising from Navarrete on the Roman road Italia to Hispania this area was a base for pottery in the past. The Roman road links with the Rio Ebro which leads to Barcelona and in turn by land or sea to mainland Italy. Reddish clay soil surrounds us.

The fortified construction of Najera Monsteria provides a little insight into how this area was fought over by adjoining regions.

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Navarette

The camino takes a different shape today. We are four on the road with El Capitan providing instructions from base camp in Logroño. 

There the co-catedral peculiar 3 faced timing device shows a time of 4hrs 47 mins 58 seconds. The reasoning unknown, and I suspect not a great success, but keeping good time. 

Approaching Navarette, and one of many in Spain, the Osborne Bull is silhouetted on the hillside. Once an advertisement for a particular brandy now an iconic image enjoyed and retained by the general public. 

The Bull can't be missed but Navarette is a the crossroads of the Camino Frances and the Ignatius Pilgrimage. Stretching from Bilbao to Barcelona summertime pilgrimages are taken to remember St Ignatius of Loyola, founder of the Jesuits. Our guest house is aptly called Posada Ignatius and has much history attached to it.

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