Monday, 13 April 2015

Via Appia beyond Roma

Navigating through the backstreets of Roma was wonderful passing modern Romans attending mass, bearing baskets of gifts. It's Sunday in Italy after all!
Taking in a few landmarks I am informed by a Roman Legionary (in costume) that the archway next to the Coliseum is the Arch of Constantine through which victorious rulers triumphantly returned to the Forum on Palatine Hill. An unexpected  link to my journey and destination springs up as it was the  Emperor Constantine I who converted to Christianity and encouraged the practice throughout the Roman Empire. His name is also the root of what became the new capital of the Empire, the city of Constantinople, (formerly the Greek named Byzantium) and now Istanbul of course - where I am heading. Clearly pleased to have given the answer the Legionary is then persuaded to pose with a large group visiting from Thailand - for a fee of course!
Circo Massimo is is a massive site and fascinating to realise this is the site of the largest entertainment structure of all time. Double the capacity of the Millenium Stadium. Now grassed over it was once the place to experience chariot racing.
Along a green belt towards Porto San Sebastiano (in the old city defensive Aurelian Wall) and the start of Via Appia.
As you'd expect the road is straight with Catacombs and Mausoleums famously lining this 'Queen of Roads' which joined Roma to Bari and Brindisi on the Adriatic. Original paved sections are pretty bumpy on a bike!
The VA is fragmented towards Albano and a friendly Italian cyclist named Marco leads me the sensible way to Castel Gandolfo. The Papal Summer residence is here overlooking the beautiful Lago di Albano. The Vatican Observatory can be seen above the palace.
My efforts to follow all sections of the VA (shown on the maps) are thwarted and finding alternative ways become necessary. I tried at least but have learnt something the hard way I suppose!

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