Byzantine influence growing moving east

Byzantine aqueduct structure in Kavala is based on an original Roman one and links with the fortress. A cross high above the town is illuminated at night.
The motorway follows the VE but secondary roads, now largely fee of heavy traffic, trace the gentle lower contours of the mountains inland. These mountains become the Rodope range which stretch into Bulgaria. Wild bear and wolves live in the remotest parts of this heavily wooded mountain range.
Dotted along are sites of Byzantine castles, monasteries and bridges. Too distant or difficult to access safely by bike. I tried but gave up but now wish I had continued as in Komotini images show the superb Byzantine bridge I failed to reach. Snakes are common.
Moving easterly an increasing numbers of mosques, as well as carefully maintained churches, are noticeable.
The small towns and service stations en route provide for the traveller. A reminder of how this journey will have been made by so many since ancient times, all needing to sustain themselves for the journey ahead.
Komotini is the capital of the Rodope region and has a Turkish speaking muslim community. A ruined Byzantine castle is in the center and there are many university students at night chilling out drinking 'frapper' (iced frothy coffee) although it is actually really chilly at night at this time of year!

Egnatia Odos ie the modern highway

Stavros is the Greek name for 'cross' meaning Christian Cross. It is today a run down place amongst many along the waterfront in the direction of Amphibole and Kavala.
Ancient archaeological sites are common. Between mountains and coastline the ancient VE is now signposted as Egnatia Osos or modern Egnatia. Lesser more elevated roads allow travel off this major highway.
A section through run down coastal towns is ended nearing Amphipole with a stampede of wild boar. Startled by my appearance they disappeared into the long grass. About eight of them I would say. A change from loose dogs, guarding property, which take a big dislike to bikes! Not just mine .... I saw a local used his bike as a defence against one and that dog was with his owner.
Standing on guard the Lion of Amphipole is a memorable sight. Excavated from the river bank, a funerary monument to Laomedon, a great admiral and friend of Alexander the Great.
Dropping steeply down into Kavala where remnants of the original Roman VE construction still exist.

Thessaloniki to Stavros

My reference book (VE on foot) winds up at Thessaloniki and I have appreciated the comprehensive content. The stage to Istanbul is in the process of being prepared.
My journey picks up on the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem route schedule. Inland past the Holy Mountain archipelago back to the Aegean in Stavros.
After the hustle and bustle of Thessaloniki  it is almost a relief to be on the road again!

Thessaloniki on the Aegean Sea

Although Thessaloniki is a major city getting around the historic sites is straightforward by foot.
Via Egnatia passes straight through the city and elements of the ancient roadway exist deep underneath and being excavated (but clearly on hold at present). The Roman Arch of Galerius and Rotunda together with a Roman forum and theatre reflect the importance of the position of Thessaloniki on the crossroads of the VE and the north/south road from Athens to Skopje, Macedonia.
Ottoman and Jewish history, which was once very significant, has gone largely due to forced movements of population in recent centuries.
Basilica of Saint Dimitrios, a Roman martyr, holds the bones of the Saint. It is a moving experience to witness the casket. My visit coincided with a baptism, a happy yet serious occasion supported by the community (and a few onlookers).
At the sea front, crowded with locals and visitors on a Sunday, the Ottoman era White Tower is an unmistakable landmark.
The 'littlebighouse' hostel is most welcoming and a good choice for my two night stay.

Pella, birthplace of Alexander the Great

Flat plains of Thessaloniki with important stages on the VE. Gianista then Pella the capital of ancient Macedonia. Tortoises munching grass on the Iron Age necropolis, a huge mound with trees now on top. Fenced off as valuable finds made here by archaeologists.
The track runs out in sight of Pella, the birthplace of Alexander the Great and his father Phillip II. Alexander was educated by Aristotle no less! The city flourished in the third and fourth century BC before the Roman conquest and construction of the VE in 168 BC. Excavations show the wealthy city of the past.
My cycling route through the decaying industrial outer region of Thessaloniki is grim. A day off cycling tomorrow.

Water falls of Edessa, Greece

Outside Bitola the excavated ancient city of Heracleia Lynkestis was founded by Phillip II, father of Alexander the Great, in the 4th century BC. A Hellenic city named after Hercules and the Linkestris tribe originating in this area. Later the Romans ruled and built a semi circular amphitheatre (above the arched structure). After the Romans in the 5th century, Goths, Huns and Avars ransacked the city which was deserted after an earthquake struck in 518 AD.
Between the snow capped mountain ranges fertile plains are cultivated. Minor roads are often simply dirt tracks and its sometimes very slow progress on the bike. Making up time by opting for main highway is regularly necessary.
Greece customs are happy I am on a cycling holiday and its a relief to be working with Euros again.
A young Swiss lady was collecting data from 365 'people' she met on her travels (rather than a diary/blog) and will email me her questionnaire. Hope its straightforward but a nice idea I thought!
I was reminded that the one person I asked to photograph refused. The most helpful young man who ran the guesthouse in Benevento was "camera shy". Almost unknown phrase in today's world I thought afterwards!!
The Balkan mountain ranges continue into Greece and the waters, from ancient times, crash over the cliff edge in Edessa (the ancient name for 'waters').

Water falls of Edessa, Greece

Outside Bitola the excavated ancient city of Heracleia Lynkestis was founded by Phillip II, father of Alexander the Great, in the 4th century BC. A Hellenic city named after Hercules and the Linkestris tribe originating in this area. Later the Romans ruled and built a semi circular amphitheatre (above the arched structure). After the Romans in the 5th century, Goths, Huns and Avars ransacked the city which was deserted after an earthquake struck in 518 AD.
Between the snow capped mountain ranges fertile plains are cultivated. Minor roads are often simply dirt tracks and its sometimes very slow progress on the bike. Making up time by opting for main highway is regularly necessary.
Greece customs are happy I am on a cycling holiday and its a relief to be working with Euros again.
A young Swiss lady was collecting data from 365 'people' she met on her travels (rather than a diary/blog) and will email me her questionnaire. Hope its straightforward but a nice idea I thought!
I was reminded that the one person I asked to photograph refused. The most helpful young man who ran the guesthouse in Benevento was "camera shy". Almost unknown phrase in today's world I thought afterwards!!
The Balkan mountain ranges continue into Greece and the waters, from ancient times, crash over the cliff edge in Edessa (the ancient name for 'waters').

Ohrid, in Macedonia

Ohrid, the 'pearl of Macedonia' on one of the oldest and deepest lakes in the world. Positioned on the Via Egnatia at a crossroads with the route north to the capital Skopje.
Tsar Samouil's fortress in Ohrid once the center of a vast Bulgarian Empire. There are 365 churches and holy sites around the lake, one for each day of the year. The city has a long Christian tradition. St Sophia was built as a cathedral, converted to a mosque in the Ottoman Era and now church again. St Panteleimon pictured is a special building, once monastery, built by St Clement who assigned St Panteleimon as its patron saint. This center of learning of the new cyrillic alphabet (created to translate the bible into a Slavic language) is regarded as the 'first university' of its kind in Europe. The Roman Theatre is still used as a modern entertainment place.
Bitola is reached following sections of the VE. Leaving Resen a lonely cobblestone road leads to the Diavato pass via 'skirtiana' a Roman scissors shaped crossroad. A small church stands at the top of the pass. Bitola is a busy center and the Ottoman clock tower is a focal point. It gave the exact hours for the muezzins to sign their call for prayer.

Ottoman Bridge on route to Macedonia

The Skhumbin flows rapidly under the Ottoman Bridge just beyond Mirake and the gradual climb continues. The real climb is at Qafe Thane, qafe being Albanian for pass. The Macedonia border staff remember Diana, Princess of Wales, when I explained Cardiff was in Wales. It was one of those moments you remember from a lonely journey. Also the fact that some country boundaries have natural geographic physical limitations.
Struga on Lake Ohrid is so different to Elbasen. Refreshingly upbeat and a relaxed atmosphere.
Cycling has limited me to the roads (mainly) but my book 'Via Egnatia on foot' has kept me in touch with the ancient route to Istanbul and beyond.

Durres, Albania and the Via Egnatia

10 hour overnight ferry crossing to Durres with Adria Ferries. Few facilities and few passengers. Exchange some Euros for Leke. Roadworks redirect traffic onto beach and difficult to avoid highways.
Mosques immediately feature in the townships on route.
In the countryside, near Peqin, the VE  crosses a typical Roman bridge. The road follows the River Shkumbin to Elbasen where a southern branch of the VE joins from Apollonia. Remains of the Topcias Roman bridge are just visible amongst the debris, rubbish and electricity generating plant on the Elbasen side of the Shkumbin. The redundant gigantic industrial estate of the communist era is in this vicinity is a frightful place, like the ancient civilizations, also in ruin.
Elbasen has an ancient walled city section and Rruga Egnatia runs straight through the center of it. In the distance the mountains are snow capped!

Via Appia/Via Appia Traiana in brief

Classic Roman road out of central Roma. Original and bumpy in parts purely for leisure (no vehicles) on Sundays. A stiff climb up to Castel Gandolfo before picking up again sections of VA. Unable to follow much as completely overgrown on lesser roadways or now the line of main highways. Pretty flat to the Mediterranean and Terracina where the ancient road is visible. Again in Formia the tomb of Cicero stands alongside the VA (although my coastal route failed to follow it to inland through Fondi) and its not until Capua/Santa Maria Capua Vetere  that the VA becomes clear again. The Trajan Arch in Benevento is the iconic symbol of the start of the Via Traiana ie the 'quick' route to Bari and the Adriatic. My route. The VA branches south towards Brindisi. Over the Apennines is a lonely ride but not much more than a 1,000 meters of climbing. A Roman bridge and lesser Trajan Arch on the VAT entering into Canosa di Puglia. The VAT is signposted from Ruva di Puglia. A rough track towards Bari stopping well short.

Bari and ferry service to Albania

Bari Cathedral in the centre of the old town is understated and is very big inside. The crypts are renovated and deep down a Roman period paved road. The church of St Nicholas (Father Christmas connection) is most popular as the Saint's tomb is here. A castle has Norman connection. Capital of Puglia and ferry services to Croatia, Montenegro, Albania and Greece. It is a cosmopolitan town and the Olive Tree hostel, owned by an Australian named David, is a great cheap overnight stay.

Signboard for the Via Francigena nearing Bari

Ruvo di Puglia is a fine town and the 13th century Cathedral entrance very unusual and enchanting. Rather worn lions support slim pillars and griffons above!
Surprisingly named Appia Traiana sections   towards Bari too rough for touring bike but on the Via Fracigena and Jerusalem Way (signboard and labels).
A Roman milepost possibly? on edge of golf course near Bari and a cool breeze today off the Adriatic.