Toulouse

The lady in the photo can walk. Seriously long walks. She is on her way to Santiago and expects to arrive in November. She started in Rome in May. Her pilgrim passport stamped in St Peter's sacristy. We were able to share stories about the difficulties of getting access to the Sacristy. Most wanting the completion certificate for finishing the Via Francigena but  in her case a stamp to mark her starting point. By the way her name is Noël and she should get home by Christmas. She's Dutch.

A little cooler rising to 30+ later in the afternoon. Tolouse was swamped with students and the River Garonne offered a good view of sunset. The Hotel de Ville is a big attraction in this 4th biggest city in France but the buzz of student life is what I'll remember most.

La Petite Auberge de Saint Sernin is covered in ivy. It is 'complet' but my dormitory bed is booked in advance. I'm not surprised now I see the numbers of young people in the city.

Tomorrow my route takes me off the camino but I'm interested in visiting Carcasonne.... and the terrain is less challenging than the camino paths.

Sent from my Galaxy

Auch in Gascony

The rolling countryside is rich in agriculture and remaining green considering the soaring temperarures. The afternoon heat is almost intolerable in the mid to high 30s'. A young deer crosses an open piece of land. And apart from the occasional car and a farmer's vehicle the landscapes are still.

In villages a few peregrinos resting from the heat, mostly doing sections and to continue in the future. No "bon camino" greetings so common in Spain and no pop up coffee shops or the like ... but artwork as in outside wall painting is a common feature very much like in Spain.

Auch, historically the capital of Gascony, stands on the route to Santiago. However it's definitely the French Chemin d'Arles here and I'll have to find out some more about its alternative Via Tolosana name.

Sent from my Galaxy

Marciac

Leaving Aquitaine and in the region of Occitaine, Marciac is a small town with a gîte for pilgrim goers. Monsieur Robert opened up and and here in deep France the charming mediaeval Tower caters for pilgrim passport holders only. Basic facilities in a stone tower are part of the camino experience. And a fine roof construction is hidden within.

Walking from Arles near Montpellier Francois, staying at the gîte, is doubling the classic distance to Santiago from St Jean Pied de Port. We leave in opposite directions.

Francois informs me the area around Arles and Nimes is very Spanish with bullfighting still taking place. Surprisingly Spanish is commonly spoken in these parts.

Sent from my Galaxy

Pau on the Via Tolosana

 

In the morning sunshine on a tranquil French Sunday the town of Orthez reveals properly how lovely it is. On the River Ouse which I have shadowed from its outlet in Biarritz my journey will depart from its course here in Pau. Pau with it's castle where once King Henry IV of France lived in sight of the Pyrenees Mountains. Impressive and importantly for me on the Via Tolosana or Chemin d'Arles pilgrimage route to Santiago de Compostella.

I cross paths with a French couple on their camino route from Le Puy. It is blazingly hot at 40° on the road  and 35°+ in the shade and there is little shade in this very agricultural part of South Western France. Countless fields of mauze and sunflowers (past their best now).

Moving eastwards on the Via Tolosana in the reverse direction to the few pilgrim walkers and more distant from the Basque Region.

Sent from my Galaxy

Orthez

Crossing camino routes radiating out of Spain leading to Paris and northern France I make my way to Orthez located on the camino route to Vezeley. Tomorrow I cross the camino origjnating in Le Puy and in Pau I will join the most southerly camino to Arles. This route is one of this group of Camino Frances routes known locally as the Chemin d'Arles. It's also called the Via Tolosana and these 'Via' routes will become a feature of my journey.

A journey to link the caminos to Santiago de Compostela with the Via Francigena and Rome. Rome connecting with Jerusalem, a fair journey of course, the current trip (for me) connects most directly the big 3 Christian pilgrimage destinations. 

Orthez was virtually deserted by 9pm last night (Saturday) and crepes were the only option. And cider.