Reggio Calabria at the 'toe' of Italy

Le Tre Croci on Mount St Elia a high point after leaving traffic congested Gioia. The inlet created for the container ships at Gioia just visible in the distance. Looking south Sicily and Mount Etna now in sight.

Scilia, like many seaside towns, tropical and a road hugging the sea front to Reggio exhilarating cycling. 

Reggio Calabria has a highly respected promenade with views across to not too distant Sicily. Accommodation issues prevent me enjoying it fully but I'm here at the 'toe' inspired by two cyclists who had done the same half a century ago. Whoever they were I say thanks for sowing the  seed in a teenager boy on holiday with his parents in France, meeting them on their return journey to the UK.

Thanks Sandra for reminding me of the special occassion it is 🥂

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Gioia Tauro via Melito (Thursday)

Climbing out of Pizzo towards Melito in the opposite direction of yesterday's Giro cyclists. Road surface generally good but certainly not perfect. The race had started at Melito and the Giro 'pink jersey' theme clear to see.

As the 'toe' looms closer I'm conscious that the Roman Via Popilia and the modern day EuroVelo 7 are now sharing this final section along the Mediterranean coast to Reggio Calabria. 

Gioia Taurus is associated with a major seaport and it's a bit grim. Once notorious for Mafia involvement and a homicide rate greater than New York. 

New requirements of proof of covid 19 negative testing, to travel to Italy, means Sandra will not now be meeting me in Catania 😟

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Stage 5 Giro d' Italia near Pizzo

Today was a real thrill to witness the peleton in full flow attacking the climb out of Pizzo. 

With some intuitive planning my route towards Pizzo drifted across towards the mountains where I guessed the race would head. With enormous luck I arrived at a road junction, suitably blocked by the local Carabinieri, minutes before the convoy of motorcycles, support vehicles, filming crews, Polizia and the race riders themselves. The peleton passed in a flash with an intensity which is hard to describe. 

The convoy of vehicles followed and finally the Polizia brought up the rear and gave the Carabinieri officer the all clear. We had time to chat. He recommended the local Pizzo icecream called Tartufo. I did. Delicious too!

I won't forget Pizzo because of the race but it's actually a great little Calabrian town.

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Falerno Scalo/Lenzi

Met my new cycling friends Gerhard and Barbara from Austria en route. At the same time four Austrian guys cycling to Catania like me. We had coffee and they took off faster than me.

Coastal towns alongside beautiful blue seas are rather deserted but it is easy to imagine the draw of these places.  A highspeed railway runs along this setion of the coast and the trains never appear to stop. A San Francesco pilgrimage style statue and a fish one.

85kms today feels easy without major climbs.

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Belvedere di Marritimo and the day of the diversion (Monday)

A full on day of cycling apruptly got ramped up (literally) at Sapri where the coastal road was closed. Maybe a landslide, who knows! Any diversion inland means mountains and a few hours later I was looking way down on Sapri and the worst of the diversion was over. Displaying on my Garmin navigation device as 'Rate my donkey' I had to smile, begrudgingly, at this route description. 46kms later I'm back on track.

Hurtling past coastal towns on the main coastal highway some time is recovered. My hotel is open and expecting me. Some relief but no food at the hotel that evening or anywhere in town. My cycling reserves take a big hit .....

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