Catania and Mount Etna

Catania has suffered volcanic erruptions and earthquakes throughout its history. In the 1600s' Mount Etna errupted and lava flowed into the surrounding sea and then 20 years later a catastrophic earthquake levelled the city.

The rebuilding of the city followed a grid like uniformity and the historic centre is packed with the dominant architecture of that time, Baroque. Very powerful and an inspiration to conform with Catholic belief rather than the protestant alternatives!

There are countless grand facade churches and other insitutional buildings. The Cathedral of St Agatha solidly built to withstand any new earthquakes and a reminder inside of earlier thinner columns which didn't! St Agatha is venerated all around the city and there is a special festival in February when hundreds of thousands of Sicilians return to Catania to celebrate. 

Known by some as the 'black and white' city with much black larva stone used in construction. A relatively small section of Roman amphitheatre is now revealed and renovated below the ground level of the newly constructed buildings. A reminder of the many earlier powers which occupied this city. 

Overlooking the whole region Mount Etna is active and regularly plumes of ash drift towards the Ionian Sea.

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Catania is a Boroque city

Hotel Villa Nettuno in Taormina is a converted villa with a long tradition and the owner keen to share the history of the building.

Raining hard all morning the last stage to Catania is not straightforward. Country roads fizzling out amongst plantations of mainly lemon trees. A dedicated cyclepath from the outskirts into the centre helps. The city is compact and I will be based here for a few days before flying home.

The Elephant Fountain in Piazza Duomo is the symbol of Catania. It stands in the square in front of the Cathedral. The elephant link with Cantania goes back to Greek mythology although the current monument is hundreds of years old only. Ice Age period elephants evolved in Sicily after sea levels rose cutting it off from the mainland. It's more complicated than that but it's the root of the elephant symbolism.

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Taormina is stunning

Completely unexpected and very attractive this town with its Greek Theater from the Magna Graecia period converted to Roman Arena. The town stands high above the coastline with panoramic views at every corner. A Saracens castle is perched higher up above the town. 

It is a major tourist attraction for good reason and the most visited of all the places I've seen on this journey. But I'm unaccustomed to crowds now!

The cable car down to the beach area is convenient and Iolsa Bella Island really is enchanting.

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Taormina in Sicily

The ferry over to Messina was about half an hour crossing the Messina Straits. Bikes were not allowed and a special nod from the Captain allowed me and bike onboard. Anything involving transporting a bike from one place to another, other than pedalling it, is nerve racking!

From here the Roman Road Via Pompeia made its way along the south coast of Sicily to Catania and beyond to Syracuse. 

Today's road is chaotic on a Saturday morning in Messina but beyond the sprawl the coastal road hugs the sea front and is  superb for cycling.

The coastal stretch is beautiful looking out to sea. The first important town is Taormina with Greek and Roman historical buildings. Located high on the mountainside overhanging the shoreline below. A spectacular small island naned Isola Bella sits invitingly in the sparkling clear water below.

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Reggio Calabria at the 'toe' of Italy

Le Tre Croci on Mount St Elia a high point after leaving traffic congested Gioia. The inlet created for the container ships at Gioia just visible in the distance. Looking south Sicily and Mount Etna now in sight.

Scilia, like many seaside towns, tropical and a road hugging the sea front to Reggio exhilarating cycling. 

Reggio Calabria has a highly respected promenade with views across to not too distant Sicily. Accommodation issues prevent me enjoying it fully but I'm here at the 'toe' inspired by two cyclists who had done the same half a century ago. Whoever they were I say thanks for sowing the  seed in a teenager boy on holiday with his parents in France, meeting them on their return journey to the UK.

Thanks Sandra for reminding me of the special occassion it is 🥂

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Gioia Tauro via Melito (Thursday)

Climbing out of Pizzo towards Melito in the opposite direction of yesterday's Giro cyclists. Road surface generally good but certainly not perfect. The race had started at Melito and the Giro 'pink jersey' theme clear to see.

As the 'toe' looms closer I'm conscious that the Roman Via Popilia and the modern day EuroVelo 7 are now sharing this final section along the Mediterranean coast to Reggio Calabria. 

Gioia Taurus is associated with a major seaport and it's a bit grim. Once notorious for Mafia involvement and a homicide rate greater than New York. 

New requirements of proof of covid 19 negative testing, to travel to Italy, means Sandra will not now be meeting me in Catania 😟

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Stage 5 Giro d' Italia near Pizzo

Today was a real thrill to witness the peleton in full flow attacking the climb out of Pizzo. 

With some intuitive planning my route towards Pizzo drifted across towards the mountains where I guessed the race would head. With enormous luck I arrived at a road junction, suitably blocked by the local Carabinieri, minutes before the convoy of motorcycles, support vehicles, filming crews, Polizia and the race riders themselves. The peleton passed in a flash with an intensity which is hard to describe. 

The convoy of vehicles followed and finally the Polizia brought up the rear and gave the Carabinieri officer the all clear. We had time to chat. He recommended the local Pizzo icecream called Tartufo. I did. Delicious too!

I won't forget Pizzo because of the race but it's actually a great little Calabrian town.

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Falerno Scalo/Lenzi

Met my new cycling friends Gerhard and Barbara from Austria en route. At the same time four Austrian guys cycling to Catania like me. We had coffee and they took off faster than me.

Coastal towns alongside beautiful blue seas are rather deserted but it is easy to imagine the draw of these places.  A highspeed railway runs along this setion of the coast and the trains never appear to stop. A San Francesco pilgrimage style statue and a fish one.

85kms today feels easy without major climbs.

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Belvedere di Marritimo and the day of the diversion (Monday)

A full on day of cycling apruptly got ramped up (literally) at Sapri where the coastal road was closed. Maybe a landslide, who knows! Any diversion inland means mountains and a few hours later I was looking way down on Sapri and the worst of the diversion was over. Displaying on my Garmin navigation device as 'Rate my donkey' I had to smile, begrudgingly, at this route description. 46kms later I'm back on track.

Hurtling past coastal towns on the main coastal highway some time is recovered. My hotel is open and expecting me. Some relief but no food at the hotel that evening or anywhere in town. My cycling reserves take a big hit .....

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Policastro Bussentino (Sunday)

Relieved to get away from Casavelino, memorable for a lone night in a hotel which was technically shut, the days of serious climbing started.

At times pushing loaded bike up impossible gradients one continuous climb involved a 500+ meter ascent at very steep gradients. The scenery competing with the Amalfi coastline at times but less known. An unusual German couple, one driving a camping van and the other a motorbike stopped to chat. Other people were travelling with odd arrangements. Cool!

Policastro Bussentimo was convenient for a stopover but had not much else to offer. The apartment was like many Italian places which look poorly maintained outside but beautifully fitted out inside.

Paestum en route to Casalvelino

Unknown to me but Paestum is en route and three almost unworldly Greek temples stand solidly within a ruined Greek complex. This southerly part of Italy once occupied by the Greeks and known to the Romans as Magna Graecia.

This morning I have seen many weekend cyclists flashing past on a flat smooth coastal road. Today is the start of the Giro d'Italia and fingers crossed I view the race further south in a few days time.

Onwards from Paestum the scenic coastal road is beautiful but 'lumpy' and the 'closed' hotel in Marina di Casalvelino a low point!

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Coastal resort near Pontecagnano

Seeing the turqoise blue waters off the Amalfi Coast was a delight today. Smoother surface roads comforting. Staying near Pontecagnano the resorts are mainly closed and its largely deserted. The places ahead on my itinerary are a bit of a mystery heading further south in Campania. 

Masks required at all times in public areas.

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Pompei in Roman ruins

Not too distant from Napoli but  difficult unmaintained cobbled roads make it a very slow journey to Pompei. And good time to explore the ruined Roman city so much more advanced than I had ever realized. Street upon street of well planned sophisticated buildings and Government buildings, temples and Forum.

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