Kutahya

A finished surface road as opposed to the main highway made that an option today. Raining much of the day and later gathering strength enough to flood the roads into Kutahya. 

Drenched and shivering under a cafe canopy the young man assisting inside came out with hot steaming çay and insisted I went in to warm. Truly grateful to him! Pictured, local men and me taking çay in a remote township en route. In these scenarios I'm always invited to sit with them.

Central Anatolia and there's no shortage of Anatolian Shepherd dogs on the roadside, particularly on the remote secondary roads. Usually at least two and sometimes three or four more in support.

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

Day three to Boyzuruk

Physically today should have been easier. It wasn't, and probably the fully loaded pannier bags and the two previous days of major climbing had taken their toll. Crawling up today's climbs with heavily laden lorries not doing much better the day ends in Boyzuruk.

The route today has been unmemorable visually. A few snapshots of the figure of Ataturk in Bilegic and his bust in Boyzuruk and a warrior like sculpture on the way. Why Atila the Hun is amongst the busts I don't know but probably he controlled this region at some point.

Encouraging contact with other members of the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem currently on the road to Jerusalem weeks ahead, on foot. Is it possible I meet them weeks ahead?

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

Iznik to Bilegic

Evidence of what must have been a huge walled Roman city is visible in most unlikely places and the tumbling tower structure pictured sits next to my hotel in Iznik. The unearthing of a large Roman Theatre close by seems to be on hold.  Surrounding ground levels have built up around the Byzantine church which stands now at a sunken level with a 'matching' ticket kiosk on the shopping street!

An unmistaking smell of burning wood is the local Hamam with its extensive wood supply and rather unique version of rooflights....upturned glass semi-spheres!

Leaving Iznik from an elevated viewpoint (rest point).

Bilecik is bordering on the Central Anatolian region and two mountain ranges south of Iznik. It is in this rugged region that the Ottomans came into existence in the 13th century and everything is Ottoman this or that!

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

Istanbul

Overnight a storm has been raging and I awake early enough to recap on my three nights here in this city where East meets West. Today I am leaving and my cycling journey gets underway.

The relaxed atmosphere of this area of the city named Sultanhamet is memorable. The fascinating history of it becoming the capital of the Roman Empire in the 4th century BC and its Christian founder the Emperor Constantine the Great naming it Constantinople.  The Roman hippodrome with oberlisks brought from Egypt, now incredibly over three and a half thousand years old, the underground water cisterns providing fresh water to the city and very importantly the Aya Sofya with its history of 900 years as a Christian place of worship followed by 500 years as an Islamic one. The mosaics uncovered are superb in the sunshine, glittering pieces, thankfully plastered over respectfully by the Muslim Ottoman leaders rather than destroyed.

A picture of the Million stone which is what's left of an arched structure which marked the point from which all Eastern Roman/Byzantine cities were neasured. My end point some years ago cycling from Rome and now my starting point heading Eastwards.

The Blue Mosque built in the Ottoman period to rival the Aya Sofya stands facing it.  I understand there are now over three thousand mosques in the city. The satisfying blend of East and West is inspiring

Camino de Santiago from Madrid by bicycle in July 2018

To be a 'peregrino' on a journey to Santiago de Compostela is a privilege.

These few photos of places and people provide a taste of the 'camino' experience. The friendship shown to me by many on the way is undeniably the highlight of making your own way to Santiago.

In essence, I returned to Spain to be uplifted by the experience of travelling the 'camino' years after a wonderful journey to Santiago with Sandra in 2014. I follow the Camino de Madrid out of Madrid and through the beautiful cities of Segovia and Valladolid. Turning west I cross over to follow the Via de la Plata into Astorga and there join the Camino de Frances into Santiago. After seeing so very few 'peregrinos' before Astorga the 'camino' is now well populated with those walking and cycling. The new term for the cyclists is 'bicigrinos'. Pilgrimages to Santiago de Compostela started in 812 and the symbol of the Camino de Santiago is the scallop shell.

To supplement the report I have included a short video of the journey which can be viewed by clicking the video link on the right hand side of the blog web page (expand to view full screen).

Plaza Mayor, Madrid

Camino trail

Sierra de Guadarrama

Segovia

Albergue municipal

Valladolid

Iglesia

Welsh, Italian and French in La Beneza

Cruz de Ferro

Ponferrada, Knights Templar castle

Thai family

Spanish family

Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela

In appreciation of the Spanish welcome I include a similar overview in Spanish...............

Hay muchos caminos a Santiago de Compostela, España. Algunos peregrinos viajan desde diferente países de Europa. El favorito es el Camino francés al que Sandra y yo fuimos en bicicleta en 2014. Fue un viaje memorable y este año quería experimentar otra vez el placer del camino pero esta vez viajé yo sólo desde Madrid.

Cuando llegue al aeropuerto en Madrid la primero cosa que vi fue 'Bienvenido' y 'Buen Viaje'.Me sentí muy feliz. El próximo día tome una Credencial del Peregrino y salí a la Plaza Mayor pasando el Bernabau (Campo del Real Madrid) y muchos edificios modernos de gran altura. Hacía mucha calor y fue muy difícil en la dirección de la montañosa Sierra de Guadarrama.

Vi solo a dos peregrinos en los albergues municipales pero estuve muy feliz de ver Segovia y

Valladolid que son ciudades muy bonitas. Desde Valladolid viajé al oeste y encontré la Vía de la Plata a Benavente y después el Camino francés en Astorga. Desde Astorga a Santiago pasé a más de cien peregrinos. También a muchos 'bicigrinos' que es una nueva palabra para los ciclistas en el camino. Hace seis años había pocos 'bicigrinos' pero esta vez fue diferente.

Galicia es muy verde después de la meseta y llovió por una hora en los montes.

Hablé un poco de español en los albergues, en los restaurantes y con otros peregrinos en el camino. Recibí mi Compostela cuando llegué a Santiago. Oficialmente, la distancia desde Madrid es 675km. La catedral es fantástica y la historia y la culturale del camino es extraordinaria.

Los restos de San Diego, el apóstol, están aquí en la catedral y los peregrinos han estado visitando Santiago desde 812. El símbolo del Camino des Santiago es la concha de vieira (the scallop shell).