The Milion is zero mile point

Istanbul is currently the most populated city in Europe. It was chosen by Emperor Constantine I in the 4th century to become the 'New Rome' and for a thousand years it was the richest city in the Christian world.

In the 'New Rome' the Hippodrome chariot racing stadium replicates the Circo Massimo (in actual Rome) and the 'spina' central line is adorned with treasures from ancient Egypt and Greece. The Egyptian obelisk with hieroglyphs still incredibly sharp is only a third of its original height! Originally created in circa 1450BC in Egypt the obelisk was nearly 2000 years old when Constantine arranged its transfer to the Hippodrome.

Sultanhamet district in central Istanbul was once the site of a great Roman/Byzantine palace which in its time had no equal in Europe. Alongside the Palace and Hippodrome the church of Hagia Sophia still stands and is one of the world's greatest architectural achievements. Converted to a mosque in the 15th century by the Ottomans both Christian and Muslim influences are evident. It is truly a massive structure and the ancient mosaics within demonstrate fine and sensitive artwork. Turkey's first president Atatürk made it a museum in 1923.

So much more including the famous 'Blue Mosque' - a Muslim prayer building criticised for attempting to rival the architecture of Mecca itself. Constantine's column (Cemerlitas), the Basilica Cistern, Topkapi Palace, the Bosphorous and Golden Horn water ways and much more. The Catholic St Anthony of Padua in the Galatasaray district where I attempted to obtain a stamp for my (Via Frangicena) credential and, like in Rome, failed. The next day would have been possible!

To round this physical journey off a chance shortcut took us past the Milion. The stone pier fragment, on display in close vicinity to its original position, is what remains of the original Roman 'tetrapylon' - a once complex structure which defined the start point for all roads leading to cities within the Byzantine Empire. Fittingly, the start point (or end point) for the Via Egnatia.

Without the information made available to me through membership of the 'Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem' my engagement with the pilgrimage would have been much less. Thanks to those who have recorded or who have shared their research for their own journeys.

Finally, experiencing a little the culture and lifestyles of peoples on my journey has been remarkable. Daily communications with Sandra at home and her travelling to Istanbul to meet me have been hugely important.

Thanks for taking an interest.

Istanbul, where East meets West

The long haul into Istanbul was just as many had warned me. It seemed to start soon after leaving Silivri. I did manage to avoid the highway completely, which was quite an achievement, but got caught up in all the suburban chaos as a result.

Night image is Constantine's Column in Istanbul a couple of hours after arriving.

I have learnt something more about Constantine from first seeing the Arch of Constantine in Rome: Constantine I (the Great) became first Roman Emperor to be converted to Christianity. He was behind the Roman power base shifting East to Byzantium which he renamed Constantinople. He became Emperor (Augustus) for the combined Eastern and Western Empires in 324AD. The Eastern Byzantine Empire would continue for another thousand years. He has been a significant figure in the history of Christianity.

There is much to see here in the city that straddles the continents of Europe and Asia and, later this afternoon, Sandra arrives to share the experience with me.

Silivri and next Istanbul

Dirt tracks provide an occasional break from the highway. The route from Tekirdag to Silivri follows the coast and the countryside is green. If paths exist off the main highway walkers would enjoy beautiful countryside.

Historically, on a headland site, Marmaraereglisi is the location of ancient Perinthus Herakleia. Originally a colony of the once powerful Island of Samos, later the Capital of the Europa province of Rome for a period before Constantinople. No ancient evidence as far as I could see!

Traffic is already getting heavier as Istanbul draws closer. Silivri's 33 arched bridge built by Suleiman the Magnificent, an Ottoman Sultan is undergoing restoration work.

For journeys of this nature the prospect of reaching Istanbul today is too complicated to define properly.

Kesan to Tekirdag

Tekirdag is on the Sea of Marmara, a sea entirely bordered by Turkey. The main highway there is the only real choice for cyclists and probably walkers. It rolls on and on and it involves significant climbing over the day. Little chance to see anything historic, if it exists, on or near this stretch.

To my surprise the countryside is very green and mainly cultivated. No scrub areas in these parts. Staff I met in hotels and restaurants were most gracious. I accepted a packaged lucky coin given to me as a gift.

I left Kesan on a dirt track which met the highway 10+km beyond the town. I confess I was happy at first to get back on tar macadam roads. But they were demanding roads wth heavy traffic and the absence of any reference to the Via Egnatia made it a distance focused day.

Its Sunday and the custom in Tekirdag appears to be sipping tea at the water front late into the night. No alcohol anywhere in sight!

At night particularly the Sea of Marmara holds a certain mystique. A vessel, lights twinkling, out at sea could be for effect. I don't know! It is cool in the evening and the steaming hot 'cay' most welcome. Served in shaped glassware it is what everyone drinks. I am conscious of a being in a culture little known or understood by me.

Visa required to enter Turkey

Hot thermal springs at Trianopolis became an attraction first in Roman times. In decline now. A distance further from Alexandroupolis the VE is protected by fences, amidst ploughed fields, but well signposted from the road. Information boards again in place.

Everything is funnelled onto the main highway as the border with Turkey is approached. Maybe I half remember sometime reading a visa is required. I was able to buy one for 25 Euros after anxiously shuffling around between the Police and Custom Control. Being cautioned by the Police for seemingly attempting to enter without a visa was not a settling experience. All vehicles were being inspected and some completely emptied. At least a hundred articulated lorries queued up on the Turkey side to enter Greece. Istanbul is 230kms from this border crossing.

The only road to Kesan was the main highway and a miserable section in my opinion. A complete reverse of the relaxed beach accommodation at Alexandroupolis.

By night time Kesan livens up with Turkish music playing for families gathered in the town centre.

A Roman Legion marches 45/60kms per day!

Happily the Via Egnatia is in much evidence on my journey towards Alexandroupolis. A section of Roman bridge building came first then well signposted  'Via Egnatia' ancient road sections - easily accessed from the secondary road in the Zonian hillside pass. Detailed information boards explained the history too. It was most encouraging to step onto that old 'highway'. To even imagine a horse and chariot (as depicted on the signs) racing through!

Paul from Poitiers in France (where else!) chats in English about his travels. Over the last 5 months he has journeyed clockwise through the UK, the Baltic countries (in Lithuania at temperatures down to -20C), the Eastern European countries and now through the Balkan peninsular on his way home to Poitiers!!

Something which becomes noticeable travelling at a relatively slow pace is the regularity of towns. Based on 45 to 60kms Roman marching pace the towns evolved : Kavala, Xanti, Komotini, Alexandroupoli and all those that went before. Maybe the flavour in these parts is more Byzantine but the Roman 'principles' still apply.

Mote reliable than Albania, the Greek postal system successfully delivers a wonderful surprise card to my beach accommodation in Alexandroupolis. Thank you Sandra, handwriting still has a special personal value. I am sure someone in Albania enjoyed the Welsh cakes!
Apostolis, the owner of the beach hotel reminds me that it is the 1st May and the Greeks will be out in numbers. He has a friendly little dog called Rudi!

A day free in Alexandroupolis before heading into Turkey tomorrow.

Byzantine influence growing moving east

Byzantine aqueduct structure in Kavala is based on an original Roman one and links with the fortress. A cross high above the town is illuminated at night.
The motorway follows the VE but secondary roads, now largely fee of heavy traffic, trace the gentle lower contours of the mountains inland. These mountains become the Rodope range which stretch into Bulgaria. Wild bear and wolves live in the remotest parts of this heavily wooded mountain range.
Dotted along are sites of Byzantine castles, monasteries and bridges. Too distant or difficult to access safely by bike. I tried but gave up but now wish I had continued as in Komotini images show the superb Byzantine bridge I failed to reach. Snakes are common.
Moving easterly an increasing numbers of mosques, as well as carefully maintained churches, are noticeable.
The small towns and service stations en route provide for the traveller. A reminder of how this journey will have been made by so many since ancient times, all needing to sustain themselves for the journey ahead.
Komotini is the capital of the Rodope region and has a Turkish speaking muslim community. A ruined Byzantine castle is in the center and there are many university students at night chilling out drinking 'frapper' (iced frothy coffee) although it is actually really chilly at night at this time of year!

Egnatia Odos ie the modern highway

Stavros is the Greek name for 'cross' meaning Christian Cross. It is today a run down place amongst many along the waterfront in the direction of Amphibole and Kavala.
Ancient archaeological sites are common. Between mountains and coastline the ancient VE is now signposted as Egnatia Osos or modern Egnatia. Lesser more elevated roads allow travel off this major highway.
A section through run down coastal towns is ended nearing Amphipole with a stampede of wild boar. Startled by my appearance they disappeared into the long grass. About eight of them I would say. A change from loose dogs, guarding property, which take a big dislike to bikes! Not just mine .... I saw a local used his bike as a defence against one and that dog was with his owner.
Standing on guard the Lion of Amphipole is a memorable sight. Excavated from the river bank, a funerary monument to Laomedon, a great admiral and friend of Alexander the Great.
Dropping steeply down into Kavala where remnants of the original Roman VE construction still exist.

Thessaloniki to Stavros

My reference book (VE on foot) winds up at Thessaloniki and I have appreciated the comprehensive content. The stage to Istanbul is in the process of being prepared.
My journey picks up on the Confraternity of Pilgrims to Jerusalem route schedule. Inland past the Holy Mountain archipelago back to the Aegean in Stavros.
After the hustle and bustle of Thessaloniki  it is almost a relief to be on the road again!

Thessaloniki on the Aegean Sea

Although Thessaloniki is a major city getting around the historic sites is straightforward by foot.
Via Egnatia passes straight through the city and elements of the ancient roadway exist deep underneath and being excavated (but clearly on hold at present). The Roman Arch of Galerius and Rotunda together with a Roman forum and theatre reflect the importance of the position of Thessaloniki on the crossroads of the VE and the north/south road from Athens to Skopje, Macedonia.
Ottoman and Jewish history, which was once very significant, has gone largely due to forced movements of population in recent centuries.
Basilica of Saint Dimitrios, a Roman martyr, holds the bones of the Saint. It is a moving experience to witness the casket. My visit coincided with a baptism, a happy yet serious occasion supported by the community (and a few onlookers).
At the sea front, crowded with locals and visitors on a Sunday, the Ottoman era White Tower is an unmistakable landmark.
The 'littlebighouse' hostel is most welcoming and a good choice for my two night stay.