Smolensk - Drogobuzh

Smolensk Kremlin is the largest fortified city defence in Europe although only about half of the 6kms length now remains. Built by Ivan the Terrible in the 16th century to originally protect Russia from the Polish/Lithuanian Empire and since then countless other invasions including Napoleon and Hitler.

Hurtling down and crawling up steep valleys formed by tributaries to the Dneipr and a distance signpost for Mockba (Moscow) but no towns of any consequence until Drogobuzh in 90 kms. Depressing place on the Dneiper and an abundance of mosquitos.

Stages of Napoleon's march to Moscow are signposted - chasing the Russian retreating army then vice versa. Of 600,000 soldiers less than 30,000 made it home.

Dogged defence of Smolensk had frustrated Hitler's march to Moscow and his expected victory over the Red Army.

Today these heroic efforts of the past are  evident on the road to Moscow. The communities reflect a less upbeat present day.

Smolensk and failed invasions of Russia

Krazny memorial to victorious Russia dismissing Napoleon

 

Krasny, my unscheduled overnight, is the place Napoleon faced humiliating defeat as the Russians overwhelmed a retreating  French army. Napoleon had failed to extend his Empire as the Russians never conceded ..... remember 'War and Peace' .....even  though a burnt out Moscow had been handed over on a plate to Napoleon. With Winter kicking in Napoleon's dejected army made its way back towards France and at Krasny the pursuing Russian army heavily defeated the French. Napoleon himself made a run for it back to Paris and his army was in tatters.

Hitler's 4 million soldiers attacking the Eastern front in 1941 were also unsuccessful and the operation became the downfall of the Nazi régime.

Smolensk remembers both invasions as a crucial step towards Moscow. It honours its heroes accordingly!






















My issues over accommodation increase and the alternative apartment I am allocated isn't so bad......really!

From Russia with love!

Not by choice but I am in Russia - ahead of schedule!!!

Today's 'ups and downs' are rarely more pronounced. Fast roads, sunshine and a tail wind to Orsha. Bike safely stored away in Hotel Orsha, reservation paperwork good and then a rapid change of well being - scrutiny of visa indicates expiry today and that means midnight today!! Travelling into Russia tomorrow is unacceptable, telephone call with Police, no flexibility ......... start cycling soon and you can make the border!

Another 70+kms and I am in Krasny, Russia and the sun is setting fast. Three guys from Belarus speak English and save me from a night in the woods. First they find a small hostel - it's closed so they locate the owner who immediately drives over and opens up. The ATM is located next and I pay the owner in Russian rubbles. The whole place is mine for the night and WiFi is available too!





















Thankyou 3 guys from Belarus who just happen to be in Krasny, you have been wonderful 'ambassadors' for your country....

Dust roads to avoid motorway

Directions for those approaching the motorway from a minor road leaving Barysau. Moscow straight on, Brest on Belarus/Polish border left.

Simple for motorists but the motorway has replaced the original road system and its a very difficult 20 to 30 kms navigating through villages on dust tracks and sand paths.

Talachyn is very similar to the other small towns in Belarus. Nobody seems happy about anything around here and my BelHotel.by hotel bookings continue to be very poor standard.

And another thing, everyone in a shop or cafe (virtually none outside major towns) wears white or blue overalls and is always mopping up or furiously cleaning surfaces. I have never been in any shop where I haven't had to queue although you can rarely buy anything fresh. Fruit and veg is poor but most people grow their own in their garden from what I've seen. Bottled beers are plentiful and you take them home to consume - no bars are to be found anywhere outside major cities. I could keep going .... I will, the shops have several assistants behind a counter and you have to ask for things and then pay in hundreds of thousands which is usually a couple of Euros or less......and they don't usually have the correct change and you play 'swap and change' for a while until its right.

I was recently informed by the Belarusian guy that shops have (uninviting) lobbies to cope with the severe cold conditions in Winter. Fair point!

Barysau

Minsk skyline is highrise and the Belarusians are smartly turned out and sophisticated. There is a marked difference between here and life in the smaller country towns. Cycling provisions are surprisingly advanced  helped by the fact that streets are very wide and pavements have plenty of room for cycle lanes.

It doesn't take long to find the dust tracks once beyond the city ring road and its a bumpy ride to Barysau.

Knowing the standard of my previous Belarussian BelHotel accommodation it is a relief to find this is a larger establishment. In fairness the cost at less than 10 Euros is very small. The stamped paperwork and payments in advance were made weeks before I left and each place included in my visa. The 'insitutional' showers were refreshingly cold.

Its nice to meet a Belarusian couple in a restaurant next to a square with a statue of Lenin. He's everywhere in Belarus  (Lenin that is) but less so in other former Soviet States - apparently. Stanislava and Kirril speak English and Stanislava teaches English in a local school. Kirril is in the business of manufacturing mechanical 'diggers' and sees a Brexit bringing a downturn in European economy which will have an affect on global economy and potentially harm his business. Who would have thought such matters in Europe would be looked at with concern in Belarus?

The struggle to improve economies and standards doesn't come easily in many less wealthy countries.