Col de Montgenévre and Italy

 

The fortified outpost on high protecting the equally fortified walls of the city of BBriançon together with the view looking back as the climb over the Col de Montgenévre begins. Not my planned route but yesterday's stormy weather has closed my preferred route. A sign indicated 'Bardonecchia fermé' and the local man I stopped said "better go Montgenévre". Local advice is best as a rule on these matters and in fact mud slurry had been swept off my chosen road so the rainfall had been significant. You know what grey mud slurry looks like!

The Col summit is a skiing resort. Trekkers gathering and heading over ski slopes into the forest. Snow between November and April.

Piedmont, Italy and an Italian fortified complex once controlling the valley. And a chance connection with the Via Francigena pilgrimage route which completes in Rome. No pilgrims seen yet but plenty more opportunities will arise.

Briançon gets wet

Weather change in Briançon today. 

Tomorrow the mountain pass Pian del Colle into Italy. Slightly easier gradients than that of Col de Montgènevre. 

Briançon, highest city in France

Briançon is the highest city in France at 1,326m elevation. It's been difficult cycling here and I have tomorrow to investigate the history of this fortified place. 

En route today I note the turning towards the Col de Traversette at Guillestre, short of Briançon. The journey from the Rhone crossing has been long and arduous but the section over the Col de Traversette into Italy is only passable by foot. Legend says rock faces were smashed to widen the track to allow Hannibal's army safe passage. I must continue on road surfaces and after following desperately difficult sections of 'off road' today know that decision was right.

The later constructed Roman Via Domitia passed through Briançon and entered Italy at the Col de Montgenèvre. My direction until I catch up with Hannibal's trail in Turin.

Gap to Embrun

Cow bells ring, crystal blue lake water invites water sports and various cols for racing cyclists to test themselves. Off the main highway the gradients are challenging but scenery outstanding.

So burning hot still when I thought temperatures would drop. In the Alps at altitude this feels fundamentally wrong.

In 1944 an American bomber crash landed in this region, after a raid on Berlin, and the crew saved by village locals and Frech resistance fighters. The aircraft propeller blade acts as a poignant memorial.

To my delight in Embrun the bar is serving Domain des Annibals vin blanc. How could I resist. In actuality the vineyard is very distant but the coincidence of seeing it being served here a boost to morale.

The lake is Lac de Serre-Pontçon.

 

 

Gap in Haute-Alpes

Moving slowly from one river course to another the backdrop of mountains constantly changes. I am reminded of cardboard cut-outs of mountain peaks being slid past each other (like a childish animation) and disappearing in time for another one to reappear.

I've learnt hunting wild boar takes place and deer. Wolves inhabit the more remote parts in these thickly forested mountains. Feed is provided for the boars to keep them away from properties.

Gap is a substantial town and lies on the Roman Via Domitia. Hannibal's route was longwinded when there is a more direct route back to the Rhone crossing point. Of course the Via Domitia didn't exist then and maintaining the element of uncertainty was crucial to his plan.

Gap Cathedral is very smart and isn't actually much more than one hundred years old. It is built on the same site as the 5th century church which fell into ruin. And that one was built on the ruins of the Roman Temple to the God Apollo.

 

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Col de Grimone

After Die the River Drôme turns south and a tributary Le Bez leads to further altitude on the road to Col de Grimone. A long haul to the col at 1318m elevation (just short of Ben Nevis) and the panorama ahead is seriously drammatic. How an army lead by Hannibal moves through thick vegetation is difficult to comprehend but I'd say feasible to cross this ridge at Grimone. Some canyons on the way wouldn't help mind!

You get used to shops being closed at lunchtime. And restaurants close on various days. Others open by request if the cook is in a good mood. I'm not in Paris it's true but it's never straightforward. 

Saint Julien en Beauchene is a village apparently left behind on a highway taking passengers to more upbeat places. 

The first day temperatures have not reached well over 32° and a big help managing the climbing.

 

River Drôme to Die

That River Drôme has brought this journey into a new dimension. Gone the plains of the Rhône and now more spectacular views following this river valley. It's completely different and inspiring regardless of the suffocating temperature. Shouldn't it get cooler with higher altitude!

This is a different lifestyle where you pay in cash. And have to go to a cashpoint (in  hurry) to pay for your meal. Never rely on a card alone in more remote locations.

If he didn't come this way he should have (Hannibal that is) although this is early days in the foothills of the Alps. No beers are recognisable is a good sign of local produce. Importantly they taste good. The local and renowned fizzy Clairette wine is beyond the places I frequent. 

Spot the real person with a real dog in this image of a happy fulfilled household on the Drône. Good luck... 

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Orange to Les Tourettes following the Rhône

The Rhóne itself with its tributaries encompass a wide area and the cycle paths zig zag through these many waterways. The prevailing wind seems to follow the river valley downstream and a constant headwind travelling upstream. Soon the River Dróne will add its water weight into the main river. The course of the Drône regarded most recently by some experts the valley Hannibal followed towards the Alpine crossing. He took his army upstream in the Rhone valley away from potential conflict with Romans nearer the coast. But crossing the Alps was next.

The width of the Rhone is breathtaking and the current is significant. The Alpine Range looms in sight. Juicy fruit tastes delicious in the unabating high temperatures.

Crossing the Rhône

The standard of Auberges de Jeunesse in France is deteriorating badly. Over many years, a lifetime in fact, I have seen the decline. They cannot continue much longer without a major improvement programme. Neither are they a fraction of the price of a small hotel. I recommend against staying at the Arles Auberge.

Cycle paths follow the Rhone upstream. At Beaucaire the rivers divides for a stretch and this is where Hannibal's army and elephants spent 5 days crossing on raft constructions. Almost impossible to imagine witnessing the volume of waters to cross. A couple of hundred years later the Romans built a crossing here as part of the Via Domitia. That road and the Via Aurelia connecting Rome through Gaul to Spain.

Avignon ia an amazing walled city and outside those walls the metro runs smoothly through manicured lawns.

No time for the best Chateauneuf du Pape.

Arles at the centre of mediaevel pilgrimages

The previous images show ancient Rome's amphitheatre now used for performance including bull fighting. The architect Frank Ghery designed the tower in the Lumar Arts complex as a major part of redeveloping an old industrial site incorporating areas of landscaping to reflect the nature of the Camargue.....and the light reflecting metal tower to resemble the light enhancing artwork of Van Gogh artwork and more of course. 

At the decision point in Arles for mediaeval pilgrims the routes to Santaigo de Compostela or Rome are displayed. The Via Domitia via the Alpine pass was built by the Romans later than Hannibal's expedition. It is a shorter route as you'd expect.

Alyscamps made famous by Van Goch's paintings is pictured together with a copy of his painting. This site was once a vast Necropolis now largely eroded over time.

Arles - amphitheatre and Lumar Arles art complex

 

The show must go on ... Arles

The journey into the Camargue has much excitement in Le Grau du Roi where water gondolas clash and horsepersons parade the main street where access is barred for safety. The bulls come later. 

In this historic town on the Rhone a Queen tribute concert blasts the main square. It's free and so unexpected.

Tomorrow a chance to see more of Arles and a second night in the Auberge de Jeuenese.

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Liberté - Egalité - Fraternité once more on way to Latte near Montpellier

Core values of French society.

I gather the motto emerged during the French Revolution with Fraternity came in to join the other two. How far does that fraternity go is a big question in todays unstable world.

A Scotsman in Sete who lives in a boat in the marina. Chris from the lowlands of Scotland purposely scaled down a second hand bike which he can manage better in his small boat. Although near the coast for at least another day it is goodbye to the open sea for me. Easy cycling along endless pathways following the beach as far as Sete. The point at which the Canal du Midi enters the Mediterranean. A long way from its access into the Bay of Biscay near Bordeaux.

Leaving a vibrant Sete a piece of sculpture.

Tomorrow the mighty Rhone river will be ahead. The biggest physical hurdle yet for Hannibal's army and elephants.

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Simply Agde

Core values of French society "Liberté, Egalité and Fraterinté" can be found displayed in most if not all towns. 

The profile of the cement works at Port la Nouvelle is strangely impressive. Dusted.

Cyclists in Narbonne completing in nearby Perpignan a French 'diagonale' starting from Strasbourg. There's officially nine of them from diagonally situated cities. This one of about 1,000 kms to be completed in 78 hours. The two blokes looked truly knackered but on schedule to complete within time limit. 

Agde is on the River Herault and the fortress like church honours the French colours  by night. 3 kms distant from

here fishing continues at sea. 

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