"your Camino has just begun"

Within the former monastery astonishingly large and intricate sculptured forms adorn the main altar and side chapels. The adjoining Iglesia (church) is a museum and historic elements of the once powerful Benedictine order are on view - scary!

Later, serious and joyful content of the pilgrim mass at the Cathedral are enjoyed with the 'botafumerio' in full swing.

True positive European attitude and intent is evident in a very worldly Dutchman we meet at dinner. I have a link to his book and there's not much he doesn't know about travelling!

Our walking journey has brought us into contact with Dutch, German, Danish, French, Belgian, Austrian, Spanish and even Bolivian walkers. They speak English!

The camaraderie on the camino is infectious!

Monasterio San Martino Pinario in Santiago

The walking journey is over and the bus journey is back to Santiago.

Once the most powerful Benedictine monastery in Galicia San Martino Pinario is largely a church now with extensive accommodation for tourists and pilgrims. Simple basic pilgrim rooms remain at a low cost in this atmospheric building. The menu del pellegrino is a no frills offering including a local wine.

Finisterre - the end of the world in Roman times

Crossing the headland from Cee and Corbucion the fishing village of Finisterre and the lighthouse on the cape are in sight.

A Danish guy who has walked 700 kms from Pamplona (bulls stampeding the street fame) decides his reserve tin of tuna has served its purpose and a picnic lunch is taken with the 'end' in sight. Little things!

The Phoenicians thought the cape was the place the sea devoured the sun. Pagan cults worshipping the sun are evident here before the arrival of Christianity. The Romans regarded it as the end if the world. St James's remains were 'discovered' in the 9th century and Santiago became a place of pilgrimage. Hundreds of years later Cristoforo Colombo returned in 1493 with news of a 'new world'.

The sun was kind and we made our way steadily by foot to the Cape of Finisterre.

Atlantic Ocean

At Hospital, where it is said a pilgrim hospital  once stood,  the track splits one way to Muxia and our way to Finisterre. There is nothing  but the trail for 15 kilometres and from this path the Atlantic comes into view on the horizon. For those travelling from central France, Switzerland and Germany this is the first glimpse of the sea since starting out months before.

Past local places of pilgrimage and natural springs  the path finally descends steeply into Thee on the coast.

Long stretch to Olveiroa

At breakfast in Albergue El Carmen we learn about the German health care system from Andreas, a German disenchanted with it he walks instead!

We climb and descend continually through forests of eucalyptus trees and small rural villages (with no refreshment points). Later through fertile fields and an abundance of streamlets.

Weather and good progress provides the opportunity to bypass Santa Marina, an option for staying, and walk on to Oliveiroa. It  is 32+ kms but we must do one long stretch now or later. Struggling to keep moving we find Albergue Horreo by 7.30 and have a dormitory to ourselves. Little things!

We learn how much patience is required to cover distance on foot. Starting to run is not an option!

Literally one step at a time

Something which keeps going on unchanged in many ways, over centuries, is what makes a pilgrimage fascinating. Following the same footpaths of so many before might appear to narrow one's outlook on life but it's the very opposite!

Finisterre is an extension of the Camino and as most walkers finish in Santiago, we meet relatively few as we make our way into the tranquil countryside.

Spanning bursting rivers mediaeval stone bridges helped pilgrims in the past and still stand to carry modern travellers by foot. It is very hilly (mountainous even) but happily the forecast was wrong and its sunny.

We stay in the first real town we meet, Negreira. A pilgrim statue greets us and we have no trouble finding a bed.

Santiago de Compostela in the rain

18 months ago we ended our cycling journey here and said then we would like to have an insight into the 'walking' experience.

Tomorrow we set off by foot.